Hot line was en fuego today. Possibly not wanting to experience the same pressure of the previous day. They hit the ground running by getting much of the mise en place done first thing in the morning.
After the quiz I lectured on offal
and game. It was quite amusing as the subject of variety meats lends itself to many puns and interesting student reactions. Offal is making a comeback and as I mentioned to my students Chris Consentino
(a former protegé of Jean Louis Palladin) has a blog devoted to the subject. I am not a huge fan of tripe, brain or andouilette but I can respect them as products and dishes that utilize every part of an animal. I love liver, kidneys, tongue, duckhearts, gizzards and sweetbreads when they are done properly. I also enjoy head cheese, pigs feet, cockscomb
and tête de veau
Game is a much easier sell to students many of which are already fans. I find it funny that so few people are receptive to Squab
or pigeon. In France I worked with it often and loved it. Every time I have had students cook with it they can rarely get past the flying rodent image. Squab is a bird raised in captivity that has never flown and is only four weeks old. It is not the crumb eating, target poop bombing, park loitering, statue tagging flying rodent that most of us are familiar with.
We were able to start cooking by around 10:30 and the day went much smoother. Norm was on point.
We put out a wonderful amuse bouche of homemade ethereally light gnocchi in duck consommé with oven dried tomato brunoise.
Then GM put out a phenomenal asparagus and shiitake soufflé. They came by and poured some saffron hollandaise over the top.
Hot line followed with a Halibut tournedo wrapped in prosciutto on a bed of puy lentils with caramelized pearl onions and a hazelnut beurre noisette. Every course was paired with a fine Vouvray from the Loire region.
For dessert we had lime and coconut sorbet with chocolate macaroons. Not quite Ladurée , Pierre Hermé or Gerard Mulot, but tasty nonetheless .
During critique “Bust a Crust” aka Don Ricardo entertained us with a bread baking rap. Don, feel free to bust it on comments.
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